Category Archives: Cortona

Siena, Tuscany, Italy

15 October 2019

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We drove Siena and the countryside was lovely. The highways, which are fast, are to very badly maintained. They are rough and not wide enough, where no-one seems to abide by the speed limits posted on the roadsides.

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Once we arrived, we found our way to the old city and drove through an archway which may have indicated that it was a restricted zone for only motorbikes and taxis.

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We parked there and just as we were getting out of the car it started to rain. Very disappointing, because we had not seen rain in the forecast, so did not have any rain attire with us. This meant we returned to the car and drove to another place to park which didn’t look so illegal. After the change, the weather did too, and we saw no more for the remainder of the day.

We walked further into the old town along winding roads and then had lunch.

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Freshly rained on street

 

It was in a tiny little café with about 6 tables and a long counter full of food and drinks.  I had tagliatelle alla ragú

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and my mate had ravioli – four large ricotta and spinach filled pillows.A263314E-F78A-4AFE-B588-27981BFD9DE9_1_201_a

 

We then started our journey into the old city a little further.  The closer we went to the centre of things like the Piazza Duomo, the more the tourist shops thrived.  The selfie-sticks and the crowds increased.  The place we were heading for was the large arena where the Palio di Siena (horse race) is held in the piazza called Il Campo – twice a year and it was crawling with people.

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Il Campo

They were everywhere, some sitting on the ground in the centre of the red brick arena, others standing taking photos and more eating at the many restaurants circling the piazza. The noise was remarkably loud with so many restaurants and the vendors selling everything from scarves, t-shirts, caps and trinkets. We took a video and the playback showed just how much noise was bouncing around the huge open space in the middle of this town.  I had not been there for 40 years and it seemed smaller this time.  “Ain’t it the way”?

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The walkway into the arena was very incredibly steep, with polished stones which made it ‘feel’ scarier. It was about 20 metres long and going slowly down it was the only way to arrive safely.  It was very funny walking down the road, which of course made it more dangerous.

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Once our destination had been achieved it was time to wend our way back to the car. At the Duomo Piazza, I had purchased for 1 Euro a map of the city, so we were able to find our way back to the car.  It was uphill and on cobblestones, so it took a while, but we did it.  There was another steep decline too which was quite testing but fun. And the rain stayed away.

 

Narrow steep streets
Siena and the tourists.
Siena
cappuccino e cioccolata calda per favore
A woman’s work is never done

The drive back was fast until we approached the base of the town of Cortona where the roads are scarily skinny.  Some vehicles seem to think they own the road and travel at frightening speeds around curves on the wrong side of the road.  But caution prevails and so we survive.  It certainly is rather stressful driving on the “wrong” side of the road in a car you are unfamiliar with albeit a Mercedes C180 and on roads that are too narrow for two cars to pass it seems – even though that is actually an illusion, you just have to be respectful and keep on your side.

Cortona, Tuscany, Italy

12 October 2019

We caught the train to Cortona from Florence after getting on the right train at the correct platform and had a lovely relaxing 80 mins to Cortona and walked out of the station towards the taxi rank, where a German woman was standing waiting for a taxi. The taxi arrived, the driver asked us if we needed a taxi etc etc so anyway the German couple said they were happy to share the ride so we went in their taxi to the top of the hill to Cortona. 💶15.

Once there, we checked into our lovely hotel called Hotel San Luca.

The view from the hotel on all sides is breathtaking. The staff are lovely and the location is fantastic. It is just around the corner from Via Nationale where lots of shops and restaurants and , a supermarket, a wine seller and buildings whose history is enthralling.

A view from Cortona
Madonna del Calcinaio – my image – text from planetware.com

A twisting road descends the southern slope of the town to the Renaissance church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Calcinaio, also called the Madonna del Calcinaio, a beautiful domed building on a cruciform plan by Francesco di Giorgio Martini of Siena. It was built to house a miraculous image of the Virgin, originally on the wall of a limestone quarry (calcinaio), belonging to the local Tanners’ Guild and now on the high altar. Built from 1485 to 1513, this is one of the most architecturally important Renaissance churches in Tuscany.

#planetware.com

We found the town enchanting and quaint. A little too touristy but there are benefits that come with that. The number of restaurants and shops is great. The food was fantastic and we had a new place to go each of our 4 nights and so we did. Well we did go to one place twice because it just asked for it. It was #Taverna Il Gozzoviglio, Via Guelfi 9 52044 Cortona AR. The staff fabulous, the food fast delicious and the right proportion. We tended to eat just the entree or Primo size, in case we felt like sweets. The house wine was always wonderful. We ordered it by the quarter litre. The other great thing about Italy is the way dogs are just ‘part of the furniture’ and so dogs barking under a table near us made us feel very rustic and comfortable.

Our last meal in the town was Cassarecce Arrabiata and Tagliatelle alla Ragú Chianina. So yummy!(images to follow)

Inside Taverna Il Gozzoviglio – too cold outside – and the wonderful waitress who spoke mostly Italian to us and we understood enough to get by. So cool.

There is a Canadian University in Cortona. We didn’t see it because the streets in the town are mostly uphill and hard to walk on for long periods. We had to park down the road and there is a carpark below the hotel with escalators to the top. Very modern.

We ate al fresco for one of our two meals there.

During our stay in Cortona we of course had to visit Bramasole the renovated home from the movie Under the Tuscan Sun and for a mere 💶40 (approx A$65) you can tour the property – ha! so we drove by and photographed a possible scene making balcony and drove on. All very disappointing really, but Frances Mayes the author at 79 still lives in Cortona. We didn’t see her.

A possible balcony for the balcony scenes from “Under the Tuscan Sun”.

Just around the corner from the property which was not offering itself to be looked at.